Bio Regen Skin Renewal Treatment
Enhanced Skin Renewal Therapy
A home kit used by clients under practitioner guidance. Supplied as two components, combined at the point of use.
Formulated For
This treatment is suitable for skin presenting with:
Melasma. This is what the system was built for. Symmetrical patches of deeper pigment across the cheeks, forehead and upper lip, driven by hormonal, vascular and inflammatory input alongside UV exposure.
Hyperpigmentation and uneven tone. Where pigment production and transfer have become dysregulated and topical treatment has plateaued.
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The marks left after acne, injury or irritation. Commonly called post acne marks.
Solar lentigines and photoageing pigment. Discrete darker spots and diffuse loss of clarity following cumulative sun exposure. Commonly called sun spots.
Textural irregularity and dullness. Where surface renewal has slowed and the skin is holding onto cells it should have shed.
Ageing skin, loss of firmness and laxity. Fine lines, crepiness, slackness along the jaw and a loss of structural support through the cheek. This is a collagen problem rather than a hydration problem, and it is addressed here by delivering the substrate and the cofactor collagen synthesis actually requires directly into the tissue rather than onto the surface of it.
Perimenopausal and postmenopausal skin. Where firmness, thickness and elasticity have changed noticeably within a short period rather than gradually over decades.
Skin that has stopped responding to topicals. Where the barrier is limiting how much of any active gets in, rather than the actives being wrong.
Suitable across all Fitzpatrick phototypes, the classification scale from I to VI describing how skin responds to UV exposure.
Not for use on broken or abraded skin, over active infection, or during an active inflammatory flare. Patch test before first full application. Not for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Use only under the guidance of your practitioner and follow the protocol supplied.
Why Melasma Needs a Different Approach
Melasma has always presented the same problem, and it is a delivery problem.
The actives that act on the pigment pathway have to reach the layer where that pathway operates. The skin barrier exists precisely to stop molecules getting in, so a topical delivers a fraction of what it contains, and in melasma a fraction is not enough against a condition that is chronic, multi pathway and continuously re triggered.
The conventional answer has been to force delivery by damaging the barrier. Peels, needling and resurfacing all work by removing or breaching tissue. In melasma that answer fails, because the melanocyte in melasma skin is hyperresponsive and injury is one of the signals it responds to. The treatment that gets actives in is the same treatment that can drive the pigment darker. That is why melasma has a reputation for being intractable, and it is why so many people with melasma have been through a cycle of procedures that made it worse.
This system resolves that. It delivers into the skin without abrading it, without removing tissue, and without creating a wound.
How It Works: The Micro Delivery System
Hydrolyzed Sponge, 99%
A naturally occurring silica material, the same mineral as quartz, present as fine microstructures. What makes it a delivery system rather than an exfoliant is dimensional control. The microstructures are produced and graded to a precise size, and that size is the entire design.
Nothing is abraded and no skin is removed. The material is not sized or shaped to scrape, sand or ablate. No layer is taken off, no wound is created, and the barrier is not stripped. This is the distinction that separates the treatment from a peel, a dermabrasion and a needling procedure, and it is the reason it is appropriate in pigmented skin where those approaches carry risk.
The delivery system is infused with the solution. When the two components are mixed, the microstructures take up the solution phase and hold it. What is then worked into the skin is not the solution sitting on the surface. It is the solution loaded inside the delivery system.
It is then suspended in the epidermal and dermal layers. The loaded microstructures pass between the cells of the surface layer and come to rest within the tissue, distributed as thousands of individual reservoirs, each holding its portion of the solution in place where it is needed.
Release is gradual, across 72 hours. The suspended material is cleared slowly by the skin’s own renewal processes, and as each point is displaced it releases what it was carrying. That produces three days of continuous delivery from within the tissue rather than a single surface application that peaks within an hour and is gone.
A conventional serum delivers a small percentage of its actives across an intact barrier in one pass. This delivers the full solution phase, from inside the skin, over three days.
The transient prickling sensation on application is the delivery system entering and is expected. The mild redness that follows is the skin registering it and beginning to respond. Both are normal and settle.
No skincare or makeup for 48 hours. This is not a precaution, it is part of the mechanism. During that window the delivery system is actively releasing inside the tissue, and anything applied to the surface introduces an uncontrolled variable into a treatment that is still running. Resume your normal routine on the third day.
Shedding: What Happens In The First 7 Days
Visible peeling and shedding within the first week is expected, and it is the treatment working rather than the skin reacting badly.
Why shedding becomes visible. Skin sheds constantly. Under normal conditions it does so invisibly, one cell at a time, as the protein rivets called corneodesmosomes that hold surface cells together are dissolved gradually by the skin’s own enzymes. You never see it because it is unsynchronised. When turnover is accelerated, cells arrive at the surface faster than that slow dissolving process can release them individually, so they are pushed off together in visible sheets and flakes instead. What changes is not that the skin has been damaged, but that shedding has moved from invisible to visible.
Why it happens in this window. A full epidermal cycle, from a cell being generated at the base to reaching the surface and shedding, normally runs at around four weeks. The renewal signalling initiated during this treatment compresses the final stage of that journey. The cells already in transit are moved through faster, which is why the shedding presents between roughly day three and day seven rather than at the end of a normal cycle.
What triggers the new cell production. Oligopeptide-1, the peptide in the solution, corresponds to epidermal growth factor. It binds a receptor on the keratinocytes in the basal layer, the deepest layer of the epidermis where new skin cells are made. Receptor binding activates the internal signalling cascade that instructs those cells to divide and to migrate upward. In plain terms, the peptide signals the skin to begin building new cells, and the treatment sustains that signal from inside the tissue across the 72 hour release window rather than for the few minutes a surface serum would manage.
Why the new cells carry less pigment. This is the part that matters in melasma. Skin cells are not born pigmented. Melanin is made by the melanocyte and then handed across into the surrounding keratinocytes, packaged in structures called melanosomes. A keratinocyte only becomes pigmented once it has received that transfer. The cells being shed are cells that have spent their lifespan accumulating pigment. The cells replacing them are newly generated and have not.
What determines how much pigment those new cells then take on is the signalling environment they arrive into, and that is precisely what the rest of the solution is acting on. Niacinamide interferes with the transfer step itself, so less pigment is handed across. Tranexamic acid works upstream, reducing the inflammatory signalling that tells the melanocyte to produce in the first place. The vitamin C derivative slows synthesis at the enzyme. A new cell population is being generated at the same moment the pigment handover is being suppressed, so what replaces the shed layer is measurably lighter than what came off.
Two things to understand about this. Shedding varies between individuals, and the amount of visible peeling is not a measure of how well the treatment has worked. Skin that flakes lightly and skin that flakes heavily can produce the same result.
And in melasma the melanocyte remains hyperresponsive after the treatment. New cells arriving lighter is the opening the treatment creates. Whether they stay that way depends on what happens next, which is the daily protocol and the photoprotection. This is why the treatment sits inside a system rather than standing alone.
The Four Week Arc
This is a regenerative treatment, and regeneration is not a next day event.
The three day release window starts the process. What follows is a cascade that continues over roughly the next four weeks, corresponding to a full epidermal turnover cycle: the time it takes for cells generated at the base of the epidermis to travel to the surface and shed. The renewal signalling initiated during treatment, and the collagen synthesis supported by the vitamin C derivative, the centella triterpenes and the amino acid substrate in the solution, express across that cycle rather than within it.
Skin assessed at day three is showing the delivery phase. Skin assessed at week four is showing the treatment. Judge it at four weeks.
The Solution
Pigment Pathway
Tranexamic Acid
Acts upstream of the melanocyte. A lysine analogue that occupies the lysine binding sites on plasminogen, limiting its conversion to plasmin. Plasmin activity in keratinocytes drives arachidonic acid release and downstream prostaglandin signalling, one of the routes by which UV and inflammation stimulate pigment producing cells. The same pathway is implicated in the vascular component that characterises melasma specifically, which is why tranexamic acid behaves differently in melasma to a conventional tyrosinase inhibitor. Delivered from inside the tissue rather than across the barrier, it reaches the layer where that pathway operates.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Does not act on tyrosinase, the pigment producing enzyme. Niacinamide interferes with the transfer of finished melanosomes, the pigment carrying organelles, from the melanocyte to the surrounding keratinocytes, a step mediated in part by PAR-2 receptor signalling. Pigment that is produced but never transferred does not reach the visible layers. As a precursor to NAD+ and NADPH it also supports the ceramide and fatty acid synthesis the barrier depends on.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
A vitamin C derivative in which an ethyl group is attached at the third carbon. That substitution blocks the site where vitamin C normally oxidises, making the molecule stable in water, and skin enzymes then cleave it to release active vitamin C after delivery. It works at two points: reduction of the copper at the tyrosinase active site, which slows pigment synthesis, and as an essential cofactor for the enzymes without which collagen cannot be assembled.
Three actives, three separate points of the same cascade.
Regeneration and Repair
Oligopeptide-1
A polypeptide corresponding to epidermal growth factor. It binds the epidermal growth factor receptor on keratinocytes, and receptor activation drives the cell proliferation and migration that underlie renewal.
Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract
Centella supplies a group of triterpenes including asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid, with madecassoside isolated here alongside the whole extract. This is among the best evidenced botanical materials in skin repair: documented upregulation of type I and type III collagen synthesis, modulation of TGF beta signalling, and anti inflammatory activity across the days following treatment.
Panthenol
Provitamin B5. Converted in the skin to pantothenic acid, the precursor of coenzyme A, which sits at the centre of the lipid synthesis the barrier relies on to rebuild.
Lysine
An essential amino acid and a direct substrate for collagen synthesis. Lysine residues are the specific sites at which the enzyme lysyl oxidase forms the cross links giving assembled collagen its strength.
Hydration
Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Two molecular weights of the same glycosaminoglycan, included deliberately. The higher weight form holds water at the surface and forms a film. The hydrolysed fraction is small enough to travel further in, which matters when it is being carried in rather than applied on.
Trehalose
A disaccharide used by organisms that survive extreme drying. It stabilises cell membranes and proteins under water stress by standing in for the water molecules that would normally hold their structure. Protective rather than simply hydrating.
Antioxidant and Soothing
Tocopheryl Acetate
A stable ester of vitamin E, cleaved by skin enzymes to release free tocopherol, which then acts as a chain breaking antioxidant halting lipid peroxidation in cell membranes.
Bisabolol
The principal active constituent of chamomile, in isolated form. Documented for anti irritant activity and for calming the visible redness response.
Traditional Chinese Botanicals
Bai Zhu, Bai Shao and Zhen Zhu appear together in the classical Chinese formulas used for facial pigmentation. Their presence here continues that lineage rather than borrowing from it.
Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract (Bai Zhu)
Supplies atractylenolides. Studied for antioxidant activity and for inhibition of tyrosinase. In TCM a principal spleen qi tonic, the system classically associated with the transformation of fluids and with the quality of the complexion.
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract (Bai Shao)
Supplies paeoniflorin, a monoterpene glycoside documented for anti inflammatory activity and studied for its effect on melanin synthesis. In TCM it nourishes blood and softens the liver, the pattern most often identified in chronic facial pigmentation.
Hydrolyzed Pearl
Pearl broken down into its constituent amino acids, conchiolin protein fragments, calcium carbonate and trace minerals. Used in Chinese medicine as Zhen Zhu, internally to settle the spirit and topically in pigmentation formulas.
Formulation Integrity
Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone
The preservative and antioxidant system, carrying elevated importance in a product delivered into the tissue rather than onto it.
Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
The rheology system, holding the delivery system evenly suspended through the working time so the dose is consistent across the face rather than settling in the bowl.
Photoprotection
Daily photoprotection is not optional with this treatment. Use the Advanced Protective Sun Lotion and the Luminous Glass Skin Tinted SPF from the range diligently, every day, including indoors and in winter, from the moment your normal routine resumes. The tint is not cosmetic. The iron oxides that give it colour are what block visible light, and visible light drives pigment production in deeper phototypes through a pathway a clear sunscreen leaves entirely open. This treatment works across four weeks. Unprotected exposure during those four weeks works against it every day.
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